Full circle

I’m sorry this blog has trailed off. My last post was in Hanoi, meaning I’ve left out two months and two new countries – Cambodia and Nepal. I’m sorry I wasn’t inspired to write about them (this was not because those countries are not inspiring), and now it’s too late.

But I couldn’t abandon this blog completely without leaving one or two concluding posts. So here is one.

It’s exactly a week since I got back to Shanghai after my AnnainGaysia travels. It’s six months and two days since I left Shanghai to start them.

I cling to the numbers because I haven’t got to the stage, if I ever will, where I can summarize a coherent conclusion to my trip.

I bumped into a friend on the first morning I was back who asked how my trip was. ‘I went to a lot of places and had a lot of experiences,’ was all that I could say. I need to work on a better answer to that question.

So I fall back on some cold hard facts. This happened:

AnnainGaysia in numbers

9 countries
11 cities
32 rooms
18 aiports
7 visas
13 flights
13 boats
6 sim cards
5 metro systems
1 Pride parade
1 political protest
3 New year celebrations (western, Vietnamese and Nepali)
89 Facebook friends
20 Face-to-face interviews (here are some links to some of them)
18 yoga teachers
4 pairs of flip flops lost, abandoned or broken
4 hats lost, abandoned or broken
29 blog posts (including this one)

Delightful sights and tastes of Hanoi

Getting lost in the disorientating maze-like street arrangement of the old quarter in Hanoi is a delight. It’s a bit like the best parts of Shanghai’s old town. But there are no signs that the government is moving in to bulldoze, as far as I could see, the old European-style buildings of Hanoi to build ugly high-rises, as is the case in Shanghai.

Paris or Hanoi?

Paris or Hanoi?

The architecture in Hanoi’s old quarter is unmistakably French, Parisienne even, with narrow buildings, shutters and balconies. Shanghai’s former French concession has it’s own unique style with 1930s art deco elements that are European but do not distinctly recall the streets of Paris the way Hanoi’s do.

I arrived in Hanoi at the start of Tet, the party for the new year of the snake. After a night of drinking and fireworks the old quarter was deserted for days as the shopkeepers, motorbike taxis and street peddlers were at home feasting with their families.

But then, little by little the streets started to come alive again. And last Sunday the old quarter was well and truly open for business again.

The shops are delightfully quaint in their specificity. One row appear to sell not much more than padlocks, each shop-front decorated with the full spectrum of sizes.

Padlock shop

Padlock shop

The next street focuses on the cuddly toy market with teddies as large as children hung by their necks along the awning and clear plastic bags of padded approximations of any of Earth’s creatures and some not from this world.

Cuddly toy shop

Cuddly toy shop

A few streets away is a row of the towels shops, which also for some reason sell toilet paper and nappies.

Towel shop

Towel shop

Here are some more shops.

Bird cage shop - I think the birds come included

Bird cage shop – I think the birds come included

Trousers falling down? They can help!

Trousers falling down? They can help!

Strip lights, string lights, fairy lights. Name the illumination, they got it.

Strip lights, string lights, fairy lights. Name the illumination, they got it.

Having a party? You want to stop here first or you'll be laughed out of town!

Having a party? Stop here first or you’ll be laughed out of town!

Want to save some money? Don't check the interest rates, check these adorable faces!

Saving up? Don’t check the interest rates, check these adorable faces!

Where to go for decent threads

Where to go for decent threads

Those are some of the delightful sights, and now for the tastes.

I think Vietnam is number one  for best food on the Anna in Gaysia itinerary. The pho noodle soup is soul reviving, the fresh spring rolls are tasty and healthy and it’s one of the only places in Asia where you can get decent bread easily, thanks to the French. There’s a a variety of other street food like…

Crisps on a stick

Crisps on a stick

Cheese sticks (both popular on the bars street)

Cheese sticks (both popular on the bars street)

The coffee is great. I’m not usually much of a coffee drinker because it jangles my nerves, but this coffee served with condensed milk (liquid fudge) doesn’t have the same effect. It’s like a comforting cup of hot chocolate.

And there’s loads of tasty and unusual dried fruits – chewing dried coconut and kiwi.

Delightful dried fruit arrangement

Delightful dried fruit arrangement

Talking of fruit, does any one know what this freaky looking specimen is? It’s got a kind of citrusy outside and looks like the segments inside a grapefruit have separated into squirmy tentacles and grown a skin. I didn’t try it so I can’t tell you what it tastes like.

Freaky fruit

Freaky fruit

Finally, here are a couple more delightful sights.

Looklng good ladies!

Looklng good ladies!

Watch out ladies!

Watch out ladies!

Final flight

Air-China

I’ve just bought my final flight on this ‘Anna in Gaysia’ six month trip – from Kathmandu to Shanghai (via Lhasa and Chengdu) on 20 April.

It feels good because I’ve felt travel-weary lately. I’ve been craving a bed and sofa to call my own. I’m tired of meeting new people all the time and having to explain myself to them: what I’m doing here, where I’ve been and where I’m going. I’m looking forward to seeing the faces I love in Shanghai.

Happily I’ve just had a taste of those faces by meeting the lovely Jen and Nick in Hanoi. And in just two weeks I’ll meet my good friend Anna Levy in Bangkok and then in April I’ll meet another close friend, Mimi who I’ve known since I was a teenager, in Nepal.

I haven’t told you about the two days on the slow-boat down the Mekong, the Franco and Laotian charm of Luang Prabang, my enchanting elephant encounter or the delightful sights and tastes of Hanoi.  I figured it’s about time I try and get paid for this stuff. So I’m going to write some of that up as a travel feature and pimp it around. Wish me luck!

P.S. I’ve just read this on Trip Advisor about my final flight:

BTW, from KTM to Chengdu via Lhasa, this was the most scenic flight route I have ever had. The flight went along the Himalayas and made a left turn right after passing Mt Everest, so you get to see three sides of the peak. Flight then flew over the Himalayas into Tibet. There was a dramatic landscape change before and after the crossing over. Absolutely striking and beautiful. Make sure you request a window seat on the left side of the plane (with letter A).

Sounds like I’m going to get a final treat before landing at 11pm at Pudong airport – or more likely passed midnight – nearly all the flights I’ve been on in China have been delayed!

Pai skies in my eyes

Pai-Sky-1

I’ve had a gorgeously relaxing and peaceful week in Pai, a small town in northern Thailand. I’ve watched ducks waddle about their ducky-business, played cards in the rain, grated carrots to make Vietnamese spring rolls, met lovely people and eaten delicious food. But my favourite part of being here is the skies.

Pai-Sky-2

The skies are huge and constantly changing. I can’t get enough of them. They remind me of a line from a (not very good) poem I wrote when I was younger: ‘sky that expands when my greedy eyes try to consume it all’. That was about the skies in the fens near where I grew up in Cambridge, where the flat earth makes the sky feel massive. But Pai isn’t flat. It’s surrounded by hills, which are elegantly draped in mist in the mornings.

Pai-Sky-7

Right now I can see dirty grey smudges that shift through shades to bright white, fluffy puffs lit from the side with heavenly depth and straight shafts of light leading to a point across the valley like a promise.

Pai-Sky-3

Cold climate dwellers fantasize about holidays under cloudless bright blue skies, but I think these ever-changing visions of many colours and shades are better. It’s probably hard to believe in the fourth month of winter in England, but all weathers are beautiful. And in Pai you get them all in one day. In the morning rain might thunder down on the bamboo hut roofs, but by the afternoon the sun is beating down so hard that shade is a relief.

Pai-Sky-4

Pai is the kind of place that will gently persuade you it’s best to do as little as possible. I’ve just found out that the name of the guesthouse where I’m staying, Ing Doi, means lazy. Doing nothing turns out to be just what I’ve needed after rushing around in cities.

Pai-Sky-5

I’ve met so many people who came to Pai intending to stay for a couple of days and ended up staying weeks. I’m tempted to stay longer too but I’ve booked a ticket to take me by slow boat along the Mekong River to Luang Prabang in Laos on Wednesday. And on Saturday I fly from there to Hanoi to meet friends from Shanghai, Jen and Nick. It will be great to catch-up with them after being away for over three months.

Pai-Sky-6

But I’ve got a feeling I’ll come back to Pai. Being here soothes my soul.

Pai-Sky-8

At home in Chiang Mai

Winged elephant in Chiang Mai

Winged elephant in Chiang Mai

I felt instantly at home and comfortable in Chiang Mai with its quiet streets dotted with temples and cafes. I hired a bike and felt like a fish who had reattached its tail after absent-mindedly leaving it somewhere – a bicycle feels like such a natural extension to my being.

Or an elephant who’s just found its wings.

The temperature is a pleasant 28 degrees centigrade. It’s even a bit chilly in the mornings – a strange sensation – but at least I’m getting to wear the long sleeve tops I’ve been carrying around with me since October.

I’m beginning to create a life for myself here as I have in the other cities I’ve visited. This entails 1) finding a good wifi cafe to work from 2) finding a nice yoga studio 3) finding cheap delicious vegetarian food.

I’ve yet to find the perfect 1). It’s almost as difficult to find the perfect working cafe in a city with lots of cafes as one with few. Over the last couple of days I’ve spent a fortune on drinks, resorting to a sickly sweet milkshake when I can’t take any more caffeine, in the search for the perfect office with fast wifi, comfy seats, a proper table at the right height, space for a mouse mat…

Yesterday I thought I found the place, Kaldi Coffee, but then I found the Wifi was slow and they were playing relentlessly cheesy love songs (not the good kind – BoysIIMen). So I’m still hunting – after trying out four cafes yesterday and two so far today.

Yoga studios aren’t so hard. I went to a really nice ‘Mindfulness Yoga’ class yesterday at Yoga Tree. The teacher even sung to us in shavasana.

Yum cheap veggie food is not hard to find here either.

So my life is coming together in Chiang Mai but there’s something missing… friends. I think I foolishly thought that coming back to the hippies and Thailand would be like going back to the Sanctuary. It is like the Sanctuary with yoga and ecstatic dance classes, but I still miss the people who were there a lot.

What I won’t miss about Kuala Lumpur

  • Petronas Towers at night

    Petronas Towers at night

    Living in a city that appears to be 90% male.

  • The men who assume that their right of way is more important that my right of way.
  • The men who stare at me like I’m an object rather than a human being.
  • Taxi drivers who refuse to go on the meter.
  • Taxi drivers who refuse to pick me up when I insist that they use the meter.
  • Un-pedestrian-friendly town planning.
  • Malls that lead to malls that lead to more malls.
  • Humidity.

What I will miss

  • Indian vegetarian food – especially the ‘pay as you wish’ variety at Annalakshmi.
  • Pretending I’m in big India in Little India.
  • Lots of free Wi-Fi
Pay as you wish at Annalakshmi restaurant

Pay as you wish at Annalakshmi restaurant

Little India (Brickfields) in KL

Little India (Brickfields) in KL

Pani puri = yum!

Pani puri = yum!

The ‘what I won’t miss’ list outweighs the ‘what I won’t miss’, but I haven’t had a terrible time here.

I’ve met some great people via interviews, at the protest and in hostels.

I went to a meditation class at Buddhist Maha Vihar temple last night and did walking mindfulness meditation and sitting meditation. I reached the piti ‘joy’ stage of the five mental states which wizened and wise teacher Mr Chee taught us.

I’ve also enjoyed having some quiet time and getting back to work after the intensity of the Sanctuary.

I’m glad I’m going back to Thailand and the hippies next though – I fly to Chiang Mai in the north tomorrow.

In which I participate in a Malaysian political protest

Women behaving impeccably

Women behaving impeccably

‘Some things to note,’ warned Jerome. ‘Wear shoes. Don’t wear a skirt – so you can run away from the police. Bring water, sun screen and a towel and vinegar in case you get tear-gassed.’

Jerome, a Malaysian LGBT rights activist I interviewed on Friday invited me to join him at a protest the next day for free and fair elections in Malaysia.

The Malaysians have begun protesting regularly in the last three years or so  because pretty much the same political party has been in power for fifty years, since the country gained independence from Britain.

Many people are dissatisfied and feel that it’s time for something new but they fear that at the next general election, which has been delayed and delayed and needs to be called before 8 March, the same old corruption and cheating will take place to ensure the old guard stay in power.

Fortunately there was no need for running or vinegar. The protest was a lot of joyous fun, thanks to these lovely people.

Nicol and Jerome

Nicol and Jerome

Jerome (right) was part of the Seksualiti Merdeka festival for sexuality rights that was banned in 2011 and Nicol (left) was kicked out of school for writing in an exam paper that pledging allegiance to king and country in Malaysia was ‘useless’.

Mislina Mustafa

Mislina Mustafa

Mislina is a film, TV and stage actress and well-known in Malaysia. A lot of people wanted to take their photo with her.

Fahmi Reza and Big Swan

Fahmi Reza and Big Swan

And Big Swan and Fahmi Reza were described to me as ‘the Malaysian John Lennon and Yoko Ono’. He’s a documentary filmmaker and anarchist. I don’t know what she does, but she has a great hat and Big Swan is her actual name from birth, not a quirky adopted moniker.

They all met at in the Occupy Dataran (the name of the main square in KL) that lasted a year and started before Occupy Wall Street, Nicol proudly told me.

My band of famous protest-mates attracted swarms of camera phones wherever we went. We formed our own parade around the outside of Stadium Merdeka where the protest was happening (merdeka means ‘freedom’ or ‘independence’), dancing to our own rhythm made from drums, a biscuit tin and a frying pan (my instrument in this free-style orchestra). We even made the news.

After a while I remembered that I was supposed to be a journalist and said to Jerome that I’d forgotten to do any journalism here. ‘Yes but you’re not just a journalist,’ he said. ‘No,’ I agreed. ‘I’m a person first and a journalist second.’

According to news sources that are independent from the government (there are a couple, but not many), there were 100,000 people were at the protest. ‘I don’t think it will change anything,’ said Big Swan. ‘But it raises consciousness.’

Post-protest-picnic

Post-protest picnic

With all the hippy goodness at the Sanctuary (which I still haven’t written about, and not sure I can now), this protest and not being able to pass a blooming flower without plucking it to wear in my hair, this has really been a winter of love for me.

I was always jealous of my parents for living through the 1960s. But I came of age in the 1990s when Thom Yorke sung ‘I wish it was the sixties, I wish I could be happy, I wish, I wish I wish that something would happen’.

But now it feels like something is happening. As Jerome said to me on Facebook: ‘The revolution is not just in Malaysia, but all over the world.’

Here’s the tiny bit of journalism that I did remember to do at the protest:

In which I bravely wade into a feminist vs transphobia debate

Admirable woman, admirable anger, admirable hair

Admirable woman, admirable hair, admirable anger?

I wrote an article this morning, and I felt moved to say more than a neutral news story will allow. It was about a debate/Twitstorm between feminist and socialist journalist Suzanne Moore, who is a role model for me, and some people who have accused her of transphobia.

Moore wrote an article in the New Statesman about female anger, appropriately as will be revealed, in which she said:

‘The cliché is that female anger is always turned inwards rather than outwards into despair. We are angry with ourselves for not being happier, not being loved properly and not having the ideal body shape – that of a Brazilian transsexual.’

The transphobic accusation focuses on those last two words.

My first reaction, from my privileged position as a fully-biological straight woman, was …what? that’s not offensive… a Brazilian transsexual is an apt literary example for an idealized, constructed female body… she’s not saying anything bad about them.

And I felt, as Moore expressed with exhilarating and sweary female anger on Twitter, that to focus on this was missing her point about welfare cuts in Britain affecting women.

But as I read the counter arguments, I thought again.

One was from LGBT.co.uk suggesting that it is disrespectful to flippantly reference Brazilian transexuals that way, when they are vastly overrepresented in murder statistics. Their blog post on the matter said:

‘The “Brazilian transsexual” stereotype was available to Suzanne Moore because of trans women from Brazil seeking refuge from violence and murder: meeting discrimination in Europe, but less often being simply killed.’

Another counter-Moore debate from journalist Kaite Welsh said:

‘Moore is doing the exact same thing as [David] Cameron – from her position of privilege, telling us what is and isn’t worth getting pissed off about.’

I remembered that positions of privilege should not be too quick  to dismiss voices from a less privileged positions and that I come, like most people, from a position of ignorance about trans issues. Twelve months ago I had never thought much about the trans perspective at all. And what I’ve learnt over the last year working for Gay Star News has revealed that I was guilty of many (perhaps willfully) uninformed assumptions.

‘Former Sex Pistol John Lydon’s chant, “anger is an energy”, is still my cri de coeur,’ says Moore in her New Statesman article, a sentence or two before the offending words. She’s right – anger is a beautiful energy that makes us feel alive – I learnt this during AUM meditation at the Sanctuary.

But anger is also an an obstacle to being able to see another person’s point of view. Moore’s unadulterated anger defending her position was dazzling to watch, but perhaps came from a position of arrogance. Her indignation had an air of: ‘How dare you accuse me of bigotry? I’ve been a Guardian journalist for twenty years, I earned my right-on stripes while you were learning to tie your shoelaces’.

But bigotry is something we must battle against throughout our lives, even if you wrote a sympathetic piece about a transgender father in 1997. Complacency is bigotry’s best friend. They go on caravan holidays to Norfolk together and do the Daily Express crossword.

So to say, as Moore did in her Guardian column, that trans people’s concerns are ‘irrelevant’ in the face of the Tory government’s welfare cuts does seem offensive. Isn’t that like saying, we’re in the middle of a world war, it’s not the time to worry about giving women the vote. Or, we’re spreading Christian values, no time to worry about slavery. It’s being blinkered to your own moral standpoint and concerns and neglecting the concerns of people who come from a different perspective.

And Moore says she hates the word transphobia for ‘closing down discussion’. But we need a word to highlight the hatred and misunderstanding that trans people suffer when most people don’t even see it.

As Welsh points out the incident draws parallels with the Twitter storm that kicked-off when Caitlin Moran, whom I love, said that she ‘literally couldn’t give a shit’ about asking Girls creator Luna Durnham why there are no women of colour in her TV show. My friend Bim wrote a good piece about that.

Maybe the next time the old guard of funny, clever women with admirable careers receive a whiff of criticism on Twitter they should take a moment of reflection on their place in the world before rashly tweeting back at people less  powerful than them.

Anyway, that’s off my chest. This blog is a funny mix between travelogue, silly photographs and LGBT debates isn’t it? Well such is my life.

Hello 2013

I’m sorry I’ve been quiet for a while. I gave myself a much needed break from writing, analysing and interpreting over Christmas and new year.

I was in the perfect place for getting in touch with neglected parts of my being (my body, heart and soul) and for telling my mind to quieten down and shut up for a bit. I had so many incredible experiences at the Sanctuary, Had Thien, Koh Phangnan, Thailand that I approach writing about them with trepidation. I know that words can never do it justice, but writing is my means of self-expression and I don’t want to selfishly keep the experience to myself.  So I’m working on that…

In the meantime I thought I’d give a quick post about a mostly lonely week I spent in Bangkok before going down to the island.

I had some professional success scooping an interview with Asia deputy director of Human Rights Watch. Phil Robertson said today’s British government should take more responsibility for empire-era anti-sodomy laws. Many former British colonies still have laws criminalizing gay sex that were put there when they were part of the British empire. I agree with him. I’m trying to get a response from the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office about this. Watch this space.

So during my week in Bangkok I felt cool hanging out at the Foreign Correspondents Club and had street food and beers with some fun lesbians:

fun-lesbians-bangkok

I also witnessed this incredible fish-feeding frenzy: 

And let some other fish have a nibble of my feet:

nibbling-feet

Saw Buddha go on a trip:

Buddha-truck

Witnessed unparalleled Royalism:

Long-live-the-king

Saw lots of pretty temples:

pretty-temple

Met Thai Ronald McDonald:

Thai-Ronald

In London, they have the Oyster; in Hong Kong, the Octopus, but in Thailand they chose the shy warren-hiding animal of the rabbit to represent their public transport system:

Rabbit

Photos and some words from Singapore

Singapore was so culturally familiar I didn’t do much of enough interest to inspire blog posts, but here are some photos with some words.

Street-side massage chairs

Street-side massage chairs

HUB Singapore

HUB Singapore

After not having much luck finding a cafe that suits my needs for a conducive working enviroment, Katrin (my old German exchange who I hadn’t seen for 15 years – see below) suggested I work at coworking space the HUB, where she works. Coincidently my good friend Anna Levy hosts the HUB in Islington and had met Katrin at their annual conference – small world.

It was great having somewhere to go and work every day with comfortable chairs, where I didn’t have to pack up to go to the loo or out for lunch. I got the feeling everyone around me was working on awesome make-the-world-better type projects too. The HUB is the future!

Very Singaporean toilet sign

Very Singaporean toilet sign

Electronic prices in supermarket - futuristic!

Electronic prices in supermarket – futuristic!

Someone spiked Berwin's milk

Someone spiked Berwin’s milk

Mel likes copper

Mel likes copper

Very Singaporean comic strip in the Sunday paper

Very Singaporean comic strip in the Sunday paper

Crazy seed pod in the Botanical Gardens

Crazy seed pod in the Botanical Gardens

Pretty botanical gardens

Pretty botanical gardens

Strictly no durians on the MRT

Strictly no durians on the MRT

Disapproving cow on a Hindu temple

Disapproving cow on a Hindu temple

Speakers' Corner rules

Speakers’ Corner rules

Speakers’ Corner is modeled on Speakers’ Corner in Hyde Park in London (where anyone can go and speak about anything) but until 2009 you had to get a licence to speak at Speaker’s Corner in Singapore – and anyone the government didn’t like wasn’t allowed to speak. There are still a lot of rules as you can see above, and you have to register in advance.

LGBT rights activists took advantage of the relax in the law in 2009 by staging Pink Dot there, Singapore’s, non-confrontational, law-abiding and cuddly, Pride event.

Memorial for Wenwen

Memorial for Wenwen

I went to Speakers’ Corner for a memorial for Wenwen, a dolphin who died when he was being transported from the Philippines to Singapore to become an attraction at a newly opened Marine Life Park in Resorts World. Down with Resorts World!

Good breakfast deal with kopi or teh

Good breakfast deal with kopi or teh

Mosque by Arab Street

Mosque by Arab Street

Arab Street, not Little India or Chinatown, was my favourite place in Singapore. At night the lanes are filled people smoking sheisha pipes as you push past to reach quirky bars with potent cocktails.  During the day you can shop in independent boutiques and munch on hummus…

Adorable shop front buildings near Arab Street

Adorable shop front buildings near Arab Street

These restored shuttered colonial-era buildings, called ‘shop fronts’, are all over Singapore, often now housing fancy shops or expats on generous accommodation allowance packages.

Yumness in Middle Eastern restaurant near Arab Street

Yumness in Middle Eastern restaurant near Arab Street

I loved this meal – hummus (which I’ve been starved of in this part of the world), olives and baba ghanoush (almosts as fun to eat as to say, but not quite), generous portion of bread and deliciously refreshing mint and lime drink.

Skywalk between the super trees at the Gardens  by the Bay

Skywalk between the super trees at the Gardens by the Bay

If the above caption sounds like something from science fiction that’s appropriate. Walking suspended 10 metres in the air between these enormous brightly lit structures looking at the over illuminated metropolis while new-agey music boomed out made me feel like I was on another planet.

The ‘super trees’ are cleverly designed mimicing nature to provide water and energy for the two bio-domes of Gardens by the Bay.

I enjoyed the skywalk much more than visiting the bio-domes. The first (Flower Dome) was not much more than a glorified garden centre that you pay $28 (Singapore dollars, £14) to get into. The second (Cloud Forest) has a man-made mountain with a waterfall in it so is more impressive, but sill less than captivating.

Super trees from the ground

Super trees from the ground

Meeting Dilpa for a drink overlooking Marina Bay

Meeting Dilpa for a drink overlooking Marina Bay

It was great to catch up with Dilpa, a friend from university days. She took me for a drink overlooking Marina Bay at a bar in the skyscraper where she works.

View of 'the surfboard'

View of ‘the surfboard’

The surfboard at night

The surfboard at night

cccc

My old German exchange Katrin

In Singapore I met up with my old school German exchange Katrin whom I last saw in 1997! She was lovely and invited me to stay with her and her fiance for a week. Another coincidence (along with the HUB one above) is that Katrin’s fiance Sean works at the same company as Dilpa.

What I’ll miss from Singapore is quite simple – my lovely friends who live there. It was so nice to catch up with people I met at various stages of my life – from a school exchange to Germany in 1996, to university in Manchester in 2000, to netball-playing in London in 2009 to working at  Time Out Shanghai in 2010.